Bracing uses three 8-inch diameter posts and two 4-inch diameter cross braces on each end. Wire tension on this fence is maintained with springs and ratchet-type tensioning devices. An alternative is to set posts 30 feet apart and place two stay rods in the wire between each set of posts.
The high tensile electrified fence see Table 4 uses five strands of One quarter of the cost of an electric energizer is included in the cost of the 1, foot fence, assuming that such a unit would be used to energize at least a mile of fence. Wire tension on this fence is maintained with springs and ratchet type tensioning devises. The polywire fence see Table 5 uses one strand of polywire.
With the exception of the end posts, fiberglass rod posts are used and spaced 40 feet apart. One-fourth of the cost of an electric energizer is included in the cost of 1, feet of fence, assuming that such a unit would be used to energize at least a mile of fence.
Annual ownership costs for each type of fence are shown in Table 6. In addition to the initial material, labor and construction costs, owners need to determine depreciation and maintenance costs required over the useful life of the fencing. The examples in this publication provide a general comparison between the following five configurations.
The woven wire fence see Table 1 employs a brace that uses two 8-inch diameter posts and a 4-inch diameter cross-brace at each end. Posts between the braces are steel "T" posts alternated with 4-inch diameter pressure-treated wood posts. All posts are spaced 12 feet apart with one strand of barbed wire at the top.
Materials for the barbed wire fence see Table 2 are similar to the woven wire fence except that five strands of gauge barbed wire are substituted for the woven wire and single strand of barbed wire. The high tensile non-electric fence see Table 3 uses eight strands of Posts are 20 feet apart. Bracing uses three 8-inch diameter posts and two 4-inch diameter cross braces on each end.
Wire tension on this fence is maintained with springs and ratchet-type tensioning devices. An alternative is to set posts 30 feet apart and place two stay rods in the wire between each set of posts. The high tensile electrified fence see Table 4 uses five strands of One quarter of the cost of an electric energizer is included in the cost of the 1, foot fence, assuming that such a unit would be used to energize at least a mile of fence.
Wire tension on this fence is maintained with springs and ratchet type tensioning devises. The polywire fence see Table 5 uses one strand of polywire. With the exception of the end posts, fiberglass rod posts are used and spaced 40 feet apart. One-fourth of the cost of an electric energizer is included in the cost of 1, feet of fence, assuming that such a unit would be used to energize at least a mile of fence.
Annual ownership costs for each type of fence are shown in Table 6. Mark out all of your fence lines, corners, lanes, and gates. Using surveyor tape, lath, a long tape measure, chalk or bright paint, measure out where your fence-lines will go, where your corner braces will be, any lanes you will have, and where your gates will go.
Mark out where you will need to sink posts in to first start forming corner braces. The chalk and paint are ideal for smaller areas like laying out a handling facility , and pointing where corner posts will need to go. Lath with surveyor tape tied work the best as reference points to where corners will be, and where corner posts will need to be pounded in to. Use all as best as possible so that when you come back with your supplies, you won't be confused as to where to begin or where your fence-line should actually be.
Purchase your fencing supplies. You will need quite a number of items: Fence posts treated wood, metal, or metal T-posts , both with the tapered ends and some that have no tapered ends for use as top bracing posts on corner braces; Barbed, smooth or paige wire or, boards or rails depending on what kind of fence you have settled on; For wire fences especially, all wire comes in rolls so you will need to build a contraption that allows the spool of wire to freely spin when you pull it along and unroll a strand of wire along the fence line, all without you having to hold the very heavy new spool most new spools of barbed wire weigh around 70 pounds Start with a metal or iron rod or pole that easily fits in the center of the spool, then go from there with any spare wood or metal parts you find that you can hammer or weld together.
Note, though, that iron or metal parts tend to be more durable than wood, even when a wooden spool holder is held together by screws. There are all sorts of inventions many producers have created that has worked for them, from truck-mounted holders to tractor-loader holders, all with the same purpose: Allow the spool to spin freely on its center axis so that it can be more easily unrolled. Simply type in "barb wire spool holder" to your favorite search engine and be prepared to be inspired by the search results.
A ratcheting come-along wire stretcher hand-held or operated from a vehicle, the latter ideal for wire fences longer than 20 feet 6. Most common small sizes are usually 1. Dig holes. The posts are buried in a hole that is as deep as is necessary in your area, depending on the type of soil you have.
Corner brace posts need to be dug so that the base is sunk in at least 30 inches Install corner posts. Some people choose to set them in concrete, however others argue that setting them in concrete will make them more prone to rot than if they were set in gravel, sand or the soil they are to be set in.
Make sure they are straight and level it is never good to have crooked corner posts! Fill in the space around the three posts with the soil that was dug out, gravel, sand, or concrete if you so choose. You should have a an approximate right degree angle formed between the post that is standing at the very center point of the corner of your fence and the other two on either side.
Connect the bracing, horizontal posts with the three posts. Use a tape measure, a pencil, and a chainsaw to mark and cut out the points where the posts are to meet and be very snug with each other. You may need to use a mallet to fully connect the top post with the sunken-in posts. For constructing H-corners with a bracing wire: Place the blunt-end post on top of the two standing posts, and mark the top portion that needs to be removed on the standing posts, and mark the portion at either end of the brace along the curved side, not the flat side that will also need to be removed.
Allow for 6 inches You should end up with a right-angle cut into the standing posts and the same at either end of the bracing post; the cuts facing each other directly on the standing posts, and one the same side of the bracing post. Do not remove more than what is marked, rather right on the mark or slightly less to allow for a more snug fit of the bracing post.
Place the bracing post over the cuts and hammer in the ends, trying to do both at the same time, or rather not first working on getting one end all the way in before trying the other.
As mentioned, use a mallet if the braces are too tight to use with a hammer. Hammer in a couple nails into the end of the bracing post to keep it in place. Install the brace wire. The brace wire crosses from the top of one post down to the other, and tightening that wire with a stick by winding the wire up as tight as possible without breaking it further enhances the strength of the cross brace. Direction of where the brace wire is located is really important.
The wire should be looped around the top of the very middle corner brace, and sloped down to the post on the outside of the corner. Smooth galvanized wire is highly recommended, with four to five loops between each posts, then twisted.
Direction of twist is up to you. Hammer in two or three staples over the wire on each of the standing posts to secure it. Repeat with the other side of the corner.
And, repeat this step with all other corners. Note that with board or rail fences, installing corner braces is not required. Even hot-wire temporary fences do not require permanent corner braces. Put up the first line of fencing wire. This is to act as a guide to where to sink the line posts in with the post-pounder.
The first wire should be around 8 to 10 inches This step is usually not necessary for board or rail fences, nor temporary electric fences. Put up line posts. Line posts or "fence posts" mentioned above must be set at regular intervals. This distance varies widely from fence to fence, and can range from as close as 6 feet 1. Closer is better if finances allow, and is a necessity if you are building holding or working corrals that will take a lot of abuse from the animals herded in them.
All of the line posts you use that are would should be treated posts--no exceptions should be made, because untreated wood posts have a much shorter life-span than those that have been chemically pressure-treated. These same posts should taper at the end which makes it easier for the post-pounder to drive them into the ground.
Ideally line posts should be sunk in 14 to 18 inches More posts will be needed for more uneven terrain such as the edge of a hill or into a valley. Put up the rest of the wires. You will need to judge how many strands you want especially for wire fences. The standard is four wires per fence-line especially for barbed-wire fencing , but some producers prefer to install five or six-wire fences especially along roads. Make sure each wire is evenly spaced with the other. This is also part of what makes a fence strong and sturdy.
If the wires are not evenly spaced it makes it easy for an animal to put its head through the fence or even be able to go right through or under the fence without any problems. You must make it difficult for this to happen. For board to rail fences, the standard is three board or rails, one on top of the other and evenly spaced per fence line.
Hammer in the staples. Each line post will need to be connected to the wires strung up by staples. This is important because livestock will find a hole in the fence, and a hole can be a wire that is not connected to a post with a fence staple, or a wire that has been broken from too much pressure exerted on it. The staple should be hammered in at an angle to the wire never perfectly perpendicular , and the loop slightly pointing up.
It takes a lot of practice to get good at hammering staples in so they look nice and neat. They are not like hammering nails, because the two pointed ends allow for a lot more give than a single-spiked nail. Each blow to the staple must be right on ideally, blows happening so that the angle of the hammer head is next to perfectly perpendicular to the angle of the post so that it won't angle up too much into the wood, or bend so much that the staple gets so flat it needs to be replaced.
Also, when first attempting to hammer you may miss it so that the staple goes flying off somewhere in the grass and gets lost forever! Check the perimeter of the fence-line to see if you missed any staples or anything else that may be amiss. Repeat the steps above for the rest of the fences you need to build. Let the animals out to the pasture. Once you are done building the fences, you can finally let your animals out to pasture.
Keep an eye on them for an hour or so as they wander the perimeter of their new pasture to see if they find a hole to go through. If there's no problems, then you're good to go! If I'm using woven wire, how far should I space the wood posts and how deep should I set them? If using 8' posts " round , set them 2' deep spaced about 12 feet apart for pasture; 8 feet can also be used. Shorter spacing will be needed in areas that receive higher traffic or more pressure from the animals.
Yes No. Not Helpful 3 Helpful 7. It depends in the size of the posts you want to use. Sinking them around 2 to 3 feet into the ground will allow about 5 to 6 ft of remaining height. The top wire then could be about 48 to 52 inches above the ground.
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